jackie craven - architecture writer

jackie craven - architecture writer  home| meet the writer | post a message | free newsletter | contact | "the fix" got leaks and squeaks? bees and mice? drippy paint, sagging ceilings, clanging pipes? here are solutions for your troubling household dilemmas, excerpted from jackie craven's column the fix. the fix columns were published over a two year period in house & garden magazine. kitchens bathrooms electrical paint and wallpaper ceilings and floors furnishings windows and doors cleaning fireplace exterior paint and siding roof and chimney yard and garden pests heating home design art display and conservation security and vacation care kitchens q: our butcher block is dull and worn. can it be saved? a: don't toss that block. a light sanding will remove surface scratches, and gentle washing with baking soda will slough away most odors. beware of harsh or acidic cleaners like vinegar, lemon juice, and bleach. they can damage the wood or the adhesives that hold it together. for safe, thorough cleaning, helen and robert terry of old world butcher block furniture recommend a mild antibacterial soap. every few weeks, restore your butcher block with a fresh coat of oil. natural mineral oil is best; it's nontoxic and won't turn stinky, like vegetable oil. for extra stain resistance, paint on a film of melted paraffin wax and use an iron to work it in. still worried about residual smells? use a separate cutting board for garlic and onions. q: any cures for a stinky sink? we've tried drain cleaners, but nothing seems to get rid of the nasty garbage smell. a: if the drain isn't clogged, chances are the odor is emanating from deeper down. first, tackle garbage buildup in your disposal. scrub and disinfect the rubber flaps and the gasket, then grind chunks of orange, lemon, lime, or grapefruit. to keep the disposal fresh, grind a bit of ice every month to dislodge food particles caught in the blades. to freshen sinks, including those without disposals, pour a box of baking soda down the drain, run about half a gallon of water, and let sit overnight. for slow drains, use vinegar in place of water to help remove calcium deposits. still stinky? the natural bacteria and enzymes in bio-clean (800-553-5573) eat odor-causing wastes that stick to drain walls. if the nasty smell persists, call a plumber. it may be a symptom of bigger problems. q: we have our heart set on tile for our new countertop. how can we make sure it holds up over time? a: pick colors you love; with proper installation and care, the tile will last as long as your house. porcelain is denser, harder, and more wear- and water-resistant than other ceramics. porcelain tiles, however, are more brittle than others. buy extras, so you can replace a cracked tile without redoing the whole counter. to guarantee a long life, the tiles should be applied to a perfectly flat, waterproof surface. the surface may expand and contract with changing temperatures, so use a flexible silicone caulk -- or leave a small space -- between tiles and walls. use epoxy-based grout between tiles. it costs more than cement-based grout, but it resists stains and won't need sealing. for help and resources, consult the tile council of america. q: yikes! i set a hot pot on our laminate counterop. is there any way to repair the burn mark? a: if the mark is not too big, you can give it a sort of band-aid. track down a tube of laminate repair material such as seamfil (800-837-4971 for a distributor) or formfill (orders: 888-536-0042), and the recommended solvent. for the best match, it helps to know your countertop's make and color number. if your countertop is patterned, try to match the background. scrape through the burn, clean the opening with solvent, and smooth in the repair material. the patch shrinks as it dries, so you may need to add more. even if you have a perfect color match, the fix will not be invisible. so why not turn your boo-boo into something beautiful? ask your kitchen designer to install a tile trivet. your installer will cut out the damaged area, attach plywood underneath the counter, add filler, and lay the tiles. now you have a new splash of color -- and a place to set your pots. bathrooms q: our water pipes sound like a heavy metal band. how can we stop the clanging? a: that's not blue man group pounding in your walls, it's the sound of your plumbing calling out for help. if not repaired, you could end up with leaky faucets or ruptured pipes. the fix might be as simple as securing loose pipes with straps and rubber cushions. but, if the big bangs happen just as you turn a faucet off, chances are you have blocked air channels. located behind your fixtures, these air-filled pipes are supposed to cushion the shock when flowing water slams against a closed valve. over time, the air channels can become water-clogged. to clear them, turn off your main water supply and then turn on all your faucets. once your system is drained, turn off the facets and turn the water main back on. still hearing heavy metal? ask your plumber to install water hammer arresters near the noisiest fixtures. these inexpensive devices have sliding pistons or inflatable bladders which soften the tidal waves inside your pipes. high water pressure can also lead to heavy percussion; if yours is above 80 psi (pounds per inch), you'll want to add a pressure-reducing valve. q: help! the shower scalds me every time someone flushes. can i bathe safely without replumbing the house? a: you don't have to visit the bates motel to know shower terror. the narrow water pipes in older houses lead to uneven water pressure, which results in sudden gushes of hot or cold water. to maintain a constant temperature, have your plumber install "pressure-balancing" or "thermostatic" shower valves. some, like scald-guard from delta (deltafaucet.com) are located inside the shower handle. others are connected to the pipes behind the faucets, or at the water heater. for an instant fix, try your hardware store. anti-scald faucet aerators, shower valve inserts, and bathtub spouts cost less than $30, and you won't need a plumber. unlike pressure-balancing valves, these devices cannot adjust the water temperature for you. instead, they sense the temperature level and shut off the flow if it gets too hot. (aug 2001) q: i've always wanted a wall-mounted towel heater, like you see in fine hotels. where do i find one... and how is it installed? a: toasty towels can be yours. you'll find those luxurious warmers in chrome, brass, and even brushed nickel at stores that sell plumbing supplies or bathroom accessories. some warmers are free standing; others are mounted on the wall. if you have steam or radiant heat, ask your heating contractor to install a hydronic model. hydronic warmers circulate hot water inside the hollow towel bars. if plumbing a hydronic model is not practical, have your electrician install an oil-filled electrical model. or, for instant warmth, opt for an inexpensive plug-in design such as the achiever towel warmer from bed bath & beyond (bedbathandbeyond.com). whether electric or hydronic, a towel warmer can help heat your bathroom. to prevent burns, make sure your warmer has an automatic shut off. q: we want to reglaze our claw foot bathtub, but we're concerned. how long will the new surface last? a: the old finish on your bathtub is porcelain, baked on at temperatures up to 1800 degrees fahrenheit (982 celsius). your new finish will only be a porcelain pretender. but, don't pooh-pooh the process. with knock-your-socks-off colors and promises to last 12 to 20 years, the new bath and tile enamels will have your old tub dancing on its toes. for best results, hire a professional refinisher recommended by your local plumbing supply store or salvage center. make sure the work is guaranteed against mishaps such as sagging, crazing, and peeling. when done correctly, the reglazing will take several days. first, your refinisher will etch the old porcelain with acid. the outside of the tub and the feet may be sandblasted smooth. chips and worn areas will be filled with a polyester plastic. next comes an epoxy bonding agent followed by several coats of high gloss acrylic polyurethane enamel. then... resist temptation. your reglazed tub will need to cure for up to a week before you can jump in. also, it will always need loving care. never use abrasive cleansers or suction bath mats. don't set shampoo bottles or other objects on the porcelain surface. repair drippy faucets right away. for long lasting gleam, wax the tub with urethane polish two or three times a year. q: years ago in japan, my hotel room had the most luxurious tub i've ever experienced. when i sat down, the water actually came up to my shoulders! i'd love one of these for our master bathroom, but don't know where to begin. any ideas? a: soak away your worries. ancient japanese style tubs are a hot trend in the western world. if you want a truly authentic tub made of white cedar (said to be therapeutic), check out oregon hinoki products, inc. for a modernized version in easy-care fiberglass, ask your plumber or builder to contact a large bath supply company such as american reinforced plastics. sizes range from compact three-foot long models to spa-sized tubs with plenty room for a bathing companion. you can even purchase high-tech versions with jet steams and other modern innovations. keep in mind, a japanese soaking tub is intended just for that -- soaking. the idea is to wash before you step into the clear, still water. ideally, toilet and washing facilities are located in an adjacent room, while the soaking tub is surrounded by soothing scenes. a large window with garden views and sliding translucent screens will allow you to contemplate nature as you bask in deep, steaming water. be prepared: temperatures may be 110 degrees f (43.3 degrees c) or hotter. q: i love the 1920s tile in our shower, but the grout is shot. can we repair the wall and still preserve our vintage tiles? a: saving those classic tiles will be easy if they are still firmly attached to the wall. simply scrape out the crumbling grout and give the joints a good cleaning. while the area is still wet, rub new grout into the joints and pack it tightly. then swipe the tiles clean with a damp sponge and polish them with a dry cloth. however, if your tiles are loose and wobbly, your shower is in trouble. water has penetrated the old grout and may have damaged the wall behind. the tiles can be saved, but they'll need delicate surgery. each one must be gently pried from the wall so that the damaged areas can be repaired. make sure that your installer replaces deteriorated wallboard with moisture-resistant gypsum or fiber cement board. then give your vintage tiles a thorough cleaning and mount them with a ceramic tile adhesive. grout the seams, caulk around the faucets, and wait a few days before you use the shower. q: a clumsy plumber broke the ceramic soap dish on our bathroom wall. what's the best way to repair it? a: if the break is clean and there are no missing pieces, you may be able to fix it with a bit of glue. for a strong, waterproof hold, pick up a clear, two-part epoxy from your local hardware store. after the two ingredients are mixed, the epoxy cures quickly. use strips of sturdy adhesive tape to hold the broken piece in place while the glue dries. if your soap dish is shattered, you'll have to buy a new one. scrape the grout from around the old dish, pry the dish away from the wall, then take it to tile stores to fine one that matches its color and size. use your epoxy to attach the new dish, tape it in place till the glue sets, and regrout. electrical q: our doorbell has died. is it time for us to call an electrician? a: there's no need to call your electrician unless you enjoy her company. there may be an easy fix. pull out the push button to check the wires in back. unscrew the terminals and touch the two wires together. hear a ring? that means everything is working except the button. screw on a new one from your hardware store. don't hear a ring? check your chime. wipe away any dust and make sure the clapper or plunger can move freely. or buy a new chime and fasten the wires. still hearing the sound of silence? now you can call that electrician. you may have problems with the transformer or the wiring buried in your wall. another option: pick up a battery-operated door chime from your home supply store. paint and wallpaper q: the house i bought has dark oak paneling. i want a decorative painter to turn it into boiserie. what are the hazards of painting over paneling? a: paint applied over a glossy surface may easily scratch and chip. but, not to worry! you can enjoy the exquisite detail of french boiserie for many years, provided that your painter prepares the woodwork properly. first, the paneling must be thoroughly cleaned. many experts like to use tsp (trisodium phosphate) because it does not leave a heavy film. after the surface is dry, it should be deglossed. your painter may lightly sand the oak, or may opt to apply a liquid sanding solvent. the liquid deglosser will remove any grease or oils that the tsp missed, and will also prepare the paneling. for the best adhesion of a primer. since you're painting over dark wood, it will be important to apply a heavy-duty primer-sealer such as kilz or zinsser's b-i-n. to save on the amount of finish paint needed, the primer may be tinted to match your top coat. and finally, the artistry can begin! for lasting results, ask your painter to use a top-grade oil-based paint. q. someone painted over the fancy cabinet pulls in our dining room, but we think they are brass. how can we be sure? a: grab a magnet from your refrigerator door. if it sticks to your cabinet hardware, then chances are you do not have brass under all that paint. the pulls may be an inexpensive alloy such as zinc-based pot-metal. don't be downhearted. whether you have brass or an imitation, you can bring out the beauty of your metalwork by stripping off the layers of old paint. remove the pulls from your cupboards and coat them with ordinary paint stripper. use extra fine (0000 grade) steel wool or an old, soft toothbrush to scrub paint and dirt from the grooves. brass hardware will glow if you buff with a commercial polish and seal with a polymer-based car wax or exterior polyurethane. pot-metal will have a dull leaden color, so you may want to repaint. to dramatize the filigreed patterns, glaze in a contrasting shade. q: i'd love the wallpaper in our bathroom if it would stay put. how do i keep the paper from lifting at the seams? a: steamy showers can make the finest papers peel. and no wallpaper bonds well if the wall hasn't been prepared with a good wallpaper primer such as shieldz by zinsser. for extra adhesion, coat the back of prepasted papers with an activator such as zinsser sure-grip. as for those sagging seams, your paper hanger will need to carefully lift the loose paper and dab on wallpaper seam adhesive. when the glue gets slightly tacky, flatten the seam with a small wooden roller. if your wallpaper is especially unruly, consider sealing the seams with a light coat of clear, non-gloss polyurethane. q: we've painted, replastered, and painted again, but our bathroom walls keep peeling and cracking. is there a way around this? a: bathrooms are soggy places, and walls that aren't well sealed are likely to get soggy, too. for a paint job that lasts, start with a thoroughly dry, well-cured surface. joint compound must be applied in skim coats and left to dry for a full 24 hours. plaster will harden quickly, but it's best to wait two or three weeks before applying paint. for water resistance, painting pros often recommend an alkyd-based primer-sealer followed by one or two finish coats. forget the flats; paints that contain enamel will give the most protection with you turn up the steam. ceilings and floors q: we want our new music room to be soundproof, but acoustical ceiling tiles are so ugly. any alternatives? a: get loud. your ceiling doesn't have to remind you of a hospital waiting room. for the look of a victorian embossed ceiling, check out tintile acoustical tiles from armstrong (800-233-3823). they come in white, but glisten like a authentic tin when covered with pewter or bronze paint. no height is lost: the one foot-square tiles attach directly to the ceiling. if you need access to pipes and electrical wiring, the best bet is a suspended grid system with acoustical panels. armstrong has 2' x 2' panels embossed with sports and music motifs. or design your own custom panels from interior systems. the firm also offers metallic panels in shimmering shades of aluminum, gold, and copper. q: ever since we installed new wall-to-wall carpeting, i've had a headache. could i be allergic to my rugs? a: it's no wonder you feel lousy. the synthetic fibers used in new carpeting contain enough chemicals to make your head spin. however, the real culprit may not be in the rug, but in fumes emitting from the padding or adhesive beneath. what to do do? vacuuming won't remove that new carpet smell, and shampooing or steam cleaning could make the problem even worse. but, before you tell your installers to rip out those smelly rugs, do give the problem time -- and fresh air. keep doors and windows open as much as possible ventilate the room with window fans or air conditioners. the most unpleasant odors will clear within 72 hours. in four or five weeks, your carpets will be close to fume-free. too sick to wait? if you are highly sensitive to chemicals, wall-to-wall may not be a healthy choice for you. replace your rugs with hardwood or ceramic tile. or, if you must have the plush feel of carpets underfoot, choose natural cotton or wool. instruct your installers to unroll and air out the carpeting in their warehouse before bringing it to your home. and, most importantly, check to be sure that the materials and the installation follow the air quality guidelines outlined by the carpet & rug institute. q: the wood floors in my apartment were refinished, and now they creak loudly enough to wake the dead. what gives? a: floors that shriek and groan aren't just being cranky. somewhere, wood is grating against wood. but hold onto your hammer. unless there is damage to the subfloor or joists, you may be able to silence squeaks without pounding nails. chances are, dry heat has caused the wood to shrink, creating gaps between the boards. consider using a humidifier to add moisture to the air. also, keep your apartment an even temperature to prevent the crackle of expanding and contracting wood. if squeaks persist, try lubricating spaces between floor boards with liquid wax. or use a plastic squeeze bottle to squirt in talcum powder, soap power, or the powdered graphite lubricant used by locksmiths. as a last resort, you may want to tighten the floorboards and subfloor to the joist. there's no need to use ugly nails. log onto squeakyfloor.com for a squeeeeek no more repair kit. it includes special screws with snap-off heads, making your quick fix nearly invisible. q: for our new kitchen, i'd like hardwood floors. but will they survive kids, pets, and water spills? a: thanks to new, stronger finishes, wood is good for almost any room. rambunctious dogs and muddy sneakers won't easily damage wood that has received a high-pressure factory finish. engineered wood, made of bonded wood fibers topped with a real wood veneer, is even stronger. it expands and contracts less than solid wood and can be applied on a foam cushion over just about any subfloor, including concrete. or, consider laminate flooring, made by pergo and other companies. it has synthetic backing and is coated with a faux wood veneer. laminate is also hard to scratch. if your pup does manage to claw the floor, you'll need to patch the damaged area or replace a panel; faux wood veneers cannot be sanded and refinished. whatever you choose, put foot mats by doors, wipe up spills promptly, and watch out for kitty litter and other grit. q: we're going retro. any idea where we can find linoleum floor patterns from the 1930s and 1940s? a: forget the boring floors you see in hospitals. in grandma's day, linoleum really made a statement, with bold geometrics and a bouquet of floral designs. there were drawbacks, however. linoleum from the 1940s was difficult to install and prone to changing color. by the 1970s, most homeowners were opting for vinyl. today, you can choose between vinyl and improved, fade-resistant linoleum. for jazzy geometric patterns, check out the linoleum borders offered by forbo industries. or consider laying red and white linoleum or vinyl tiles in a crisp checkerboard pattern. hankering for splashy florals? linoleum city in los angeles has old-fashioned patterns in green, burgundy, and autumnal tones. they're made of vinyl, not linoleum, but even grandma wouldn't see the difference. phone 800-559-2489 to request samples. furnishings q: our antique rocker needs a new cane seat. how can i make sure the job is done correctly? a: let your chair be your guide: it will tell you the best caning process to use. first, check the perimeter of the seat. if there is a groove in the wood, then your chair was designed for pressed, or spline, cane. this means that the old caning was machine woven. the craftsperson who repairs your seat will press the edges of a pre-woven sheet into the grooves. glue and reed splines will hold the caning in place. however, if you see small holes drilled along the edge of the seat, your chair needs strand, or hole-to-hole, cane. in this process, thin strips of cane are threaded through the holes and woven in a hexagon pattern. because it is handwoven, strand cane requires more time and skill. not all chair caners are expert weavers. to find a craftsperson who does quality work, check with antique dealers, upholstery shops, and furniture strippers. when the job is done, toss a cushion across the seat to extend the life of your new caning. q: i'm told that the chair in my study was designed by the famous architect, mies van der rohe. is this possible? a: the great architects of the 20th century didn't stop at designing buildings. they made sofas, foot stools, day beds, and, yes, chairs. mies van der rohe, renown for his sleek seagram skyscraper, was truly a master of stuff to sit on. his weissenhof and tugendhat chairs are sculpted masterpieces of curved stainless steel. his barcelona chair, designed to seat the king of spain at the 1929 world's fair, has become an internationally recognized status symbol. is your chair a mies van der rohe original? well, it probably is not the chair the king sat in. however, it could be a mies design. to investigate, explore the furniture archives at the rochester institute of technology. want a companion coffee table? log onto www.classiconline.com. prices range from $500 to $1900. "a chair is a very difficult object. a skyscraper is almost easier. that is why chippendale is famous." --mies van der rohe, in time magazine, february 18, 1957 q: we want to build a loft bed for our 8-year-old. how can we make sure it's safe? a: whether it's a bunk bed or a loft, an elevated sleeping platform will give your child the thrill of sleeping up high. but before you get any lofty ideas, check out the bunk bed guidelines set by the american society for testing and materials or the u.s. consumer product safety commission. even if the bed is set against a well, guardrails should be firmly screwed or bolted to both sides and should extend at least five inches above the mattress. make sure that any gaps between the rails are no wider than three and a half inches. choose a mattress that fits the frame snugly, and install sturdy supports beneath. set the ladder at a comfortable slope, and secure it firmly to the bed frame. still worried? buy a pre-assembled bed that meets cpsc standards, or order detailed building plans from an established woodorking company. windows and doors q: what gives? our newly installed, top-of-the-line windows are dripping with moisture. a: if condensation is trapped between the layers of glass in a double- or triple-paned window, call the manufacturer or your window installer. you have a faulty seal, and the glass must be replaced. but if the moisture is forming on the inner, or room, side of the panes, don't blame the windows. they're doing their job and keeping warm air from escaping. with nowhere to go, the moisture in your home is puddling against the cool glass. the solution? use exhaust fans in your bathrooms and kitchen. make sure that your clothes dryer is vented and that your attic louvers are open. if you have a humidifier, reduce the setting. place a dehumidifier in your basement, and ask a heating contractor to check your furnace ventilation. once you've reduced the humidity in your house, your windows will weep no more. q: the previous owners painted out bedroom windows shut, and now they won't budge. what's the best way to unstick them? a: unsticking your windows may be as easy as slicing a piza--and as messy. first, make sure the window isn't locked or nailed shut. then use a circular pizza cutter or a utility knife to score the paint seal all the way around the window sash. wedge in a putty knife and wiggle it back and forth around the entire seam, including the bottom and top edges. do this on the outside also, if your windows aren't too high. still stuck? try gently tapping the window frame with a wood block and a hammer, or force open the sash with a flat pry bar on the windowsill. as a last resort you can pry off the window stops and remove the window from its tracks. to keep windows gliding smoothly, lightly sand the tracks and rub them with candle wax or a bar of soap. next time the room is painted, be sure to open and close the windows a few times before they are dry. q: i love living in the city, but hate the noise. can i soundproof my windows... without heavy curtains? a: throw away your earplugs. you can enjoy city views without being deafened by blasting horns. the trick is to install windows which are air tight. a single pane of glass in a wooden frame will do little to muffle outside racket. double- or triple-pane glass can cut the noise level in half. the more space trapped between the glass panes, the less sound will seep through. for the most noise reduction, pick laminated glass and vinyl window frames. don't want the fuss and expense of replacement windows? ask your local home supply center about interior mount windows. some, like soundproof windows (1-877-438-7843) are specially designed to combat noise. attached inside the frame of your existing window, they create the air seal you need to dull the din. q: the best part of our new vacation home will be the floor to ceiling windows. i know we'll need some privacy, but i just hate the thought of adding draperies or blinds. are there any other options? a: you can toss the curtains out with yesterday's newspaper. new technologies have created tinted and reflective specialty glasses which block the sun's rays and provide some protection from the curious eyes of passersby. better yet, exciting developments in "switchable glazings" let you actually adjust your windows from clear to opaque, and any level in between. ask your builder to check out the spd "smart window," newly developed by research frontiers. q: our cat thinks we should install a pet door, but we worry about squirrels getting into the house. any suggestions? a: in truth, your headstrong cat will be safer if it stays inside. but if kitty must have its way, give it a pet door that only it can open. electronic and electromagnetic doors respond to a specially coded transmitter on the pet's collar. squirrels, strays, and other undesirable critters can't enter because they don't have the electronic key. even the most precocious raccoon will be thwarted if you choose a chew-proof motorized door with an aluminum frame. your local pet supply store will have doors in many sizes and styles; be sure to measure mr. wonderful's height and girth before placing your order. cleaning q: help! i accidentally swiped a marker across the cushion of our leather sofa. how do i get out the stain? a: leather lovers swear by a variety of folk remedies. try gently rubbing the stain with milk or a sliced tomato. or, experiment with toothpaste, mechanic's gel soap, rubbing alcohol, nail polish remover, or hair spray. the best solution will depend on the type of leather you have and the type of ink in your wayward marker. if possible, ask your furniture maker to recommend a cleaning agent. also check with the company that manufactured your marker. they may sell a special solvent for their ink. whichever fix you try, be sure to do a spot test in a hidden area. some soaps and chemicals can make your boo-boo even worse. never scrub fine leather with detergent, ammonia, or abrasive cleaners. also be wary of silicone products - they may cause your upholstery to soil more quickly. q: alien spores must have landed in our bathroom. no matter how often i clean, the mildew keeps growing back. what to do? a: resistance is not futile. those fuzzy black spores are tough to remove, but they won't form colonies in territories that are clean and dry. first, make sure you do not have leaking pipes or drippy faucets. then, launch your attack with a thorough scrubbing using bleach and water or a bathroom spray. cover stained grout with bleach-soaked rags and let set for several hours. wash the shower curtain in hot soapy water, rub mildew stains with lemon and salt, dry in the sun, and then rinse. to ward off future invasions, use a ventilation fan or, if the weather is not humid, open a window. after bathing, swipe a squeegee over shower walls and hang the curtain loosely. rinse off and hang the rubber mat and be sure towels and laundry are thoroughly dry before tossing them in the hamper. moisture-absorbing chemicals like silica gel will help suck dampness from closets and drawers. for extra protection, replace stained caulk with an acrylic latex caulk labeled "mildew resistant" and coat ceilings and walls with a mildewcide paint such as zinsser perma-white. still worried? keep a bright bulb burning: the scuzzy stuff scorns heat and light. q: our crystal chandelier gets so dusty. is there a way to keep it clean without dismantling all the baubles? a: let those baubles be. unless your chandelier has years of grime, you can spiff it up without taking it apart. but be wary of quick fixes. at schonbeck, where some of the world's most opulent chandeliers are made, spray cleaners are taboo. "sooner or later they will work their way into microscopic nicks and cause corrosion," says creative director eileen schonbek beer. instead of spraying, slip on your white cotton gloves. dampen one glove with windex and leave the other glove dry. caress the crystals one at a time, first with the damp hand, then with the dry. to assure that moisture does not reach metal parts or wiring, wipe the frame with a dry cloth or chamois. isn't there an easier way? for your next chandelier, look for one made of strass crystal. if the chandelier has been manufactured during the past decade, the crystal will have an invisible coating that repels dust and reduces the need for frequent cleaning. q: our beautiful leather-bound books are filling the den with an ugly, musty smell. is there anything we can do? a: it's not the quality of the writing that makes some books stink; it's the mold or mildew that grows when there is moisture in the air. to freshen up your library, give those beautiful bindings plenty of cool, dry air. set offending books in front of a fan, or take them outside on a breezy day. keep in mind that old papers and inks can darken or fade, so be cautious about bright sunlight. still stinky? try placing smelly volumes in a closed garbage pail with (but not touching) a deodorizing substance such as baking soda, cedar chips, or unscented kitty litter. after a week or so, the odor will dissipate. to prevent the smell from returning, keep your den dry and well-ventilated, and make sure that the books are mold-free before adding them to your collection. q: our designer coffee table is almost new, but the polished nickel legs are beginning to tarnish. is this normal? what can we do? a: your table may be a treasure, but the legs are a lot like a five-cent coin. unless nickel is finished with a protective coating, it will lose its luster, gaining a patina that many people like. to preserve the shine, however, follow tips from metal conservators. michael schwarts of creative metalworks in kensington, md, suggests a mild abrasive cleaner designed for jewelry and fine metals. after cleaning, give those legs a layer of protection. many museums use renaissance wax. a quality wax will last at least six months. for longer protection, take your table back to the manufacturer or to a metal finisher and ask for a clear acrylic lacquer such as incralac. q: how can we keep our royal blue tub surround from looking dull? a: a dark, shiny surface will show mineral deposits from your water. installing a water softener might help prevent this, but a less costly option is a small squeegee to swipe wetness from your shower walls after every use. if spots persist, cleaning consultant william r. griffin (cleaningconsultants.com) recommends an all-purpose tub and shower cleaner followed by a protective coating. a water-repellent fluid such as rain-x is designed for car windshields, but it will also keep spots from forming on your shower walls. be sure to test both polish and water repellent on a small area first, and always use a soft, white cloth or pad. fireplace q: call me lazy, but i just love those manufactured fire logs that don't need poking and puttering. should i worry about fumes or buildup? a: the warning labels on paper-wrapped artificial logs sure can take the romance out of a fire. but don't give up hope for fuss-free flames. faux logs are actually cleaner and safer than natural wood. made of compressed sawdust and wax, they burn slowly, at a very high heat. if your flue is blocked, you may notice an odd scent, like a burning candle. however, the fire will produce less smoke and less carbon monoxide than natural wood. also, the soot is light, fluffy, and less flammable than the heavy creosote residue from wood fires. mind you, sawdust logs that contain wax are designed for fireplaces, not woodstoves. manufactured logs will burn for two to four hours. some will even snap, crackle, and pop -- and you won't have to putter. q: the glass doors to our fireplace have turned black, and nothing seems to wash off the soot and grime. are we doomed to darkness? a: those old glass doors can be bright again, but you may need to fight ashes with ashes. the soot in your wood-burning fireplace is similar to the dye used in india ink. spray on an ordinary window cleaner and you'll get a messy black smear. instead, try a damp cloth dipped in cool wood ashes. for heavy buildups, use a weak mixture of vinegar and water. most fireplace shops also carry glass cleaners especially designed for wood soot or gas fire residue. if your fireplace doors darken after every use, check with your chimney sweep. a down draft, a clogged chimney, or other factors may be causing smoky conditions. q: our 18th century fireplace mantle is spotted, stained, and grimy with soot. how do we clean it without scratching the marble? a: bring on the soap. the best way to spiff up antique marble is with an old fashioned bar of ivory. dissolve it in hot water, lather on a thick paste, and keep it moist. after about five days, wash off the soap and buff with a soft cloth. for tough stains, you'll need to apply paper towels soaked with stronger potions. choose cleaners that aren't acidic; vinegar and lemon will eat into the stone. instead, use peroxide with a few drops of ammonia to bleach coffee and tea stains. try acetone, amyl acetate, or dry cleaning fluid on butter and other greasy stains. to brighten dull, scratched marble, rub on tin oxide or a commercial marble polish available from hardware stores and marble shops. even plain old toothpaste will make your marble smile. wipe on a marble sealer and the shine will last for years. exterior paint and siding q: thinking about what colors to paint my house has me seeing spots. between the siding, the trim, the window moldings and the doors, there are just too many possibilities. help! a: whether your house is an elaborate victorian or a contemporary design, choosing colors can be like piecing together the pieces of a complicated puzzle. fortunately, you don't have to do it alone. your architect or someone at your local paint store may be able to recommend an architectural color consultant. or, you can send photos of your house to a through-the-mail colorist. based in ann arbor, michigan, color consultant robert schweitzer counsels homeowners via his website at www.arts-crafts.com/market/robs/. clients fill out a questionnaire, send photos, and describe their own color preferences. schweitzer then becomes a sort of architectural yenta. historic scholarship and design savvy mingle with homegrown psychology to create a palette that will complement the house -- and please the people who live inside of it. the process does not always run smoothly. "sometimes we adjust a color or two, sometimes we start with a whole new color idea," schweitzer says. and sometimes, the perfect solution is an "off the wall" mix of colors. the price for perfection? schweitzer offers color counseling for $300, plus a bit extra for advice on roofing and porch remodel jobs. q: the white paint on our home looks so drab. i'd love to expose the original brick, but i'm uneasy about sandblasting. what are the risks? a: trust your instincts. blasting bricks with any abrasive material will scratch and pit the surface. your newly scrubbed house may look great, but the masonry will be susceptible to water damage. meanwhile, your home will be invaded by powdery, and possibly toxic, paint dust. fortunately, there are other, less harmful ways to remove that old white paint. ask a brick mason or house cleaning service to patch test your bricks using chemical strippers such peel away. the best solution is one strong enough to lift the paint without forceful spraying and without emitting harmful or unpleasant fumes. starting at the top of your house, the service you hire will spread or gently spray the chemical stripper. then, to keep the stripping agent from evaporating, the walls will be covered with plastic or laminated cloth. a day later -- voila! the covering will be peeled off to reveal bare bricks. well, almost. chances are, there was a reason why your masonry was painted. it may be water stained or discolored by soot. also, a series of remodelings may have resulted in mismatched brick colors. to remove dirt and to minimize color variations, your cleaning service may need to return for steam cleaning or spot treatments. before they pack up their equipment, make certain that they coat the entire surface of your home with an alcohol based sealer. this will help prevent chipping and crumbling, and will preserve the rosy glow of your brick. q: our spanish colonial home needs help -- the stucco is crumbling! do we need new siding? a: don't let the colonial crumble. if you act now, you may save yourself an expensive siding job. first, find out what is causing your stucco to unstick. chances are, you have leaks in your roof, eaves, windows, or foundation. on homes with the synthetic stucco known as eifs (exterior insulation and finish system) an improper installation can also lead to moisture problems. once you are sure that your house is dry, well-sealed, and rot-free, you can patch the stucco. chisel away the broken area and remove debris down to the wire mesh, lathe, or masonry. brush away dirt and, if needed, replace damaged mesh. dampen the opening and lather on new stucco with a trowel. for newer homes, a stucco mix from your home supply store will do just fine. use pigments and texturizers (also from your home supply store) to match the existing stucco. if your house is a genuine colonial, you may want to hire a mason to create a mix that is compatible. apply two or three coats, keep the stucco moist for a few days, and then add a textured finish. for tips and techniques, request preservation brief number 22 from the us government printing office: 202-512-1800. roof and chimney q: my chimney sweep wants to put metal caps on the top of my chimneys. but the ones in his catalog are so ugly! do i really need these things? a: your sweep speaks the truth: a chimney without a cap invites feathered friends to roost. a cap will also protect your roof from flying embers and keep out snow, which could damage your chimney lining. but, you don't have to settle for an absurd little hat. log onto www.superiorclay.com for decorative terra-cotta chimney tops from superior clay corporation. the company can also design a chimney top to suit the style of your home. installation should be done by a mason, or by a chimney sweep or roofer with masonry skills. for the best price, ask your installer to place your order. q: we need new gutters, but there are so many kinds. how do we decide? a: gutters come in many materials, but copper and wood last longest and are the most attractive. rot resistant fir-woods are favored for frame or shingle style houses. specialty mills such as blue ox millwork can carve gutters to complement existing moldings. then you paint them to match your roof or siding. brush with raw linseed oil and turpentine once a year and your wood gutters will last a century. copper never needs painting. although it dents easily, it resists rust and lasts fifty years or more. after about two years, the bright metallic sheen will age to a dusty green patina. old world distributors will make copper gutters and downspouts according to your roofer's specs. to avoid gutters altogether, check out rainhandler plus. the inch wide aluminum louvers are mounted just below your eaves and deflect runoff from the roof. q: help! melting ice along the eaves is oozing into our house. is it time for a new roof? a: keep your cool. the problem isn't your roof, but what lies beneath. heat rising from your house is warming your rafters, causing snow to melt. the melted snow re-freezes at the roof edges and an "ice dam" forms, pushing water underneath the shingles. to prevent icy seepages, your best protection is a dry, chilly attic. make sure the attic floor is well insulated. twelve inches of fiberglass or cellulose is ideal if you live in the north. watch out for gaps. spaces around openings for pipes, wiring, and chimneys should be sealed with spray foam, caulk, insulation, or weather stripping. also check your ventilation. vents in the soffits and at ridge of your roof will keep air circulating and allow moisture to flow out. got cathedral ceilings? you'll still need a well-insulated and well-vented cavity beneath the roof. if adding insulation is not practical, ask your roofer to install metal flashing at the edge of your roof to help snow slide off. or, use electrically heated de-icing cables to melt snow from your roof and gutters. yard, garden, patio, and deck q: we want to illuminate our garden path at night, but we don't want to install electricity. do solar lights really work? a: does the sun really shine? if your garden is in a bright, open spot, then solar lights will light for you. just slip in the rechargeable battery and stick the stakes into the ground. after a full day of sunshine, the lamps will cast a glow that will last eight hours or more. after a year or two you'll need to replace the batteries, but you won't see a steep electric bill. also, you'll never need to worry about electric shock. some solar lamps are even made to float on pools and ponds. before you buy, decide how much illumination you need. for soft accents, pagoda-style lamps with small led bulbs will do. to set your garden aglow, invest in a security lamp with a detached solar panel. whichever model you choose, remember that not all solar lamps will conserve enough stored power to get you through a stretch of rainy days. if trees and buildings cast shadows across your yard, consider installing low-voltage lights instead. they plug into any gfi outlet and use very little electricity. q: our youngest daughter is gung ho to build a tree house. we're game, but will our beautiful old elm survive the nails? a: as long as your elm is strong and healthy, a few nails and screws won't bring it down. they will, however, leave lasting scars in the wood. to minimize the damage, check with an arborist at your local landscraping service, and follow tips from tree house pros. david and jeanie stiles, coauthors of tree houses you can actually build (houghton mifflin), suggest using sturdy nylon rope to attach beams to the tree. be sure to give the rope a bit of slack to allow room for growth, or use eyebolts and sliding brackets to create flexible joints to let the tree bend and sway. wrap rubber pads around the branches to protect them from chafing. a well-designed tree house will nestle safely in the branches and also give your lovely elms the freedom to move and grow. for how-to help and building plans, log on to a tree house consultation service such as stilesdesigns.com or treehouseworkshop.com. q: when we bought our house, the ornamental wrought iron fence and railings were gorgeous. now, just two years later, they are crusted with rust. is there anything we can do? a: even if your wrought iron looks like a wrecked ship, it can be rescued. have your painter sand or scrape away the rust and peeling paint. a hand drill with a wire brush attachment will save on elbow grease. next, the secret ingredient is phosphoric acid -- a.k.a. naval jelly rust dissolver. this powerful gel needs only ten minutes or so to gobble up any remaining rust. afterwards, make sure that your painter gives the wrought iron a thorough washing with detergent or mineral spirits. new rust can develop quickly, so painting should begin as soon as the surface is dry. depending on the condition of the metal, your painter may brush on a good metal primer or a rust-fighting product such as rust-oleum rust reformer. to prevent wrinkling, at least four hours should pass before your painter adds another coat. your finish paint can be any color, as long as it's an oil-based enamel. two or three thin coats work better than a single thick layer. q: any ideas for a simple open air shower for our beach house? we'd like to wash off the sand before coming inside, but don't want to install a lot of complicated plumbing. a: forget the underground excavations, the insulated pipes, and the winterization woes. if all you really want to do is rinse off your feet, then check into a portable shower. yes, some do look like army camp rejects, and most will supply nothing more than bracing cold water. a surprising exception is the solar shower, available from pool supply stores such as specialty pool products. standing seven feet high, solar shower has an attractive, sculpted design. better yet, anyone who can use a screwdriver can do the installation. the shower unfolds like a penknife and hooks up to your garden hose. a storage chamber inside the lacquered galvanized steel frame holds up to 5 ½ gallons of water -- enough for a leisurely shower. for up to 80 gallons, attach additional storage units. but, is the water really hot? well, that depends on the weather. after two hours of sun exposure, you could have water as hot as 130 degrees fahrenheit. separate hot and cold taps let you adjust the temperature to your liking. don't get too comfortable, however. a portable shower which drains directly into your beach is not meant for extended soapy interludes. at summer's end, you can tuck the shower unit into storage. or, to make the solar shower a permanent fixture, ask your plumber to add underground piping and drainage. q: our contractor says we should use pressure treated lumber for our new deck, but it's so ugly! can you recommend a wood that's both beautiful and durable? a: your contractor isn't totally in the woods. pressure treated lumber makes good sense for deck framing and supports. chemical preservatives in the wood discourage hungry insects and help prevent decay. but treated wood, usually made from pine, has a drab greenish color. most varieties will splinter and warp. the solution? let the ugly chemically treated lumber do the grunt work. for the parts that show -- your decking, railings, and steps -- choose a prettier wood. redwood and western red cedar offer both rustic beauty and durability. philippine mahogany is not as hard as real mahogany, but it is strong, smooth, and practically knot-free. and then there is the exotic, almost magical, ipé. also known by the brand names pau lope and iron woods, this south american hardwood ranks number one for resistance to bugs and rot, according to the us forest products laboratory. in fact, ipé is so hard, it is nearly as difficult to burn as concrete. regardless of the wood you select, you'll want to make sure that your builder gives it a coat of a good wood preservative -- one that offers ultraviolet protection. with no additional maintenance, cedar and redwood will weather to a barn gray and may blacken in damp areas. philippine mahogany and ipé hold up better over time. do nothing, and they will age to an attractive silvery hue. with extra care, you can preserve your deck's natural red and brown tones. ask your builder to recommend a deck maintenance service. they'll come every year or as needed to clean the wood with a color-safe oxygen bleach. then they'll paint or roll on a penetrating water-repellent sealer. penofin offers a sealer that's especially formulated for ipé and other exotic hardwoods. too much work? for a worry-free deck, you could opt for vinyl or a composite lumber made from plastics, wood, and recycled paper products. the pluses: you can do your deck in a rainbow of colors, and it will always look fresh and clean. the minus? a deck made with plastics will look, well, plastic. check with local lumber stores to find out the recommended decking materials for your climate. q: for our new patio, i have my heart set on brick. but will it be as durable as concrete? a: brick is beautiful, but it has drawbacks. freezing and thawing may cause buckling; weeds can sprout in the joints. yet when properly laid, brick will last decades. the secret is in what lies beneath. make sure your mason prepares a six-inch deep excavation that slopes gently away from your house. the hole should be edged with rigid plastic or rot resistant wood, and filled with four inches of tightly packed crushed stone. if you want mortared joints, your mason will need to pour concrete over the stone. otherwise, your mason may cover the stone with strips of weed barrier fabric (available at your local nursery) and a layer of packed stone dust. the excavation is then filled with tightly abutted, "hard-burned" paving bricks. want to make sure you've picked a brick that's strong? tap it with a hammer. a hard-burned brick will let out a high, metallic sound; a softer, ornamental brick will thud like a block of wood. for detailed instructions, log onto the brick institute of america. q: grandma has a swimming pool. how can i make sure our toddler is safe when we visit? a: in the instant it takes to check the pot roast, an energetic child can find mischief. to help grandma keep your child safe, install an inexpensive alarm system. a contact alarm on the door to the pool will beep when it is opened, and a motion detector alarm in the pool area will let adults know that the tot has strayed. also use water-sensing devices. a wristband alarm will sound whenever your child gets wet. a battery-operated floating alarm will detect splashing on the surface of the pool, and an underwater sensor will detect movement beneath the surface -- and produce fewer false alarms. no detection system is perfect, so also look for ways to keep children away from the pool area. consider installing removable safety fencing with self-closing, self-locking gate. if you choose a lightweight polyester mesh, grandma will be able to roll up the fence and store it after your child goes home. another option is to install a power-driven pool cover that will glide open and closed at the flick of a switch. finally, enroll your toddler in an elementary water survival class. for more tips, contact the us consumer product safty commission, 800-638-2772. pests q: bees are boring enormous holes in our porch ceiling. how do we make them go away -- for good? a: those aren't innocent bumblebees turning your porch to sawdust. they are carpenter bees which tunnel in wood, leaving holes as big as dimes. any good wasp and hornet spray will zap the males. but the males don't sting, and killing them won't stop the destructive drilling. to rescue your porch, you'll need to get at the eggs which are nestled deep inside the tunnels. launch your attack at night, when the bees are snoozing in their nests. use a plastic squeeze bottle to puff each hole with an insecticide dust such as boric acid. in the fall, once you're sure that surviving bees have hunkered down for the winter, plug the holes with steel wool and cover with wood putty, a cork, or a wooden dowel. then, seal the ceiling with several coats of oil or polyurethane based paint or varnish. to keep new arrivals from colonizing, always keep wood surfaces well coated, or replace damaged boards with wood that has been pressure treated. q: help! mosquitos are sucking the life out of my garden parties. are noisy bug zappers and citronella candles my only hope? a: scientists are scratching their heads, trying to find ways to foil these little vampires. research shows that bug zappers aren't just annoying, but ineffective. they kill mostly good bugs like moths and beetles, leaving mosquitos free to feast on your epiderm. electronic gadgets which emit inaudible wing-speed frequencies don't work either, say researchers. even the widely-praised natural remedies are pooh-poohed in scientific circles. you simply cannot stock your garden with enough mosquito-repelling plants, bug-eating bats, or purple marlins to dispel hungry mosquitos. but don't give up hope. for a quick fix, light a few candles. even without citronella, the flames may confuse mosquitos enough to keep them from biting. also, a variety of pesticides will provide short-term relief without overwhelming your guests. about three hours before your guests arrive, spray flower beds and bushes with an insecticide such as malathion. or, use an aerosol mosquito fogger containing pyrethrins or 5% malathion. in the long run, the best solution is to make your yard so inhospitable that mosquitos won't take up housekeeping. make sure that your lawn is mowed and trimmed frequently, and have your grounds irrigated to prevent standing water. don't let water set for more than two days in flower pots, pet dishes, bird baths, or gutters. keep swimming pools and hot tubs chlorinated. if you have an ornamental pond, stock it with goldfish and mosquitofish (also known as gambusia) which eat mosquito larvae. still losing the battle against the bugs? check with your local health department. your community may have a mosquito control program with pros who can investigate problems in your region. heating q: our steam radiators aren't heating up like they used to. is it time to replace them? a: not so fast! if the old clunkers used to work, there may be an inexpensive solution. first, find out what type radiators you have. if they have two pipes, one at each end, ask your plumber to test the steam traps. a bad trap on one radiator can make another radiator go cold, so be sure the plumber checks them all. if you have one-pipe radiators, there are no steam traps. instead you'll see a shiny silver contraption screwed onto the end of each radiator. that's an air vent and when it's plugged the steam can't move. you won't need a plumber to do this fix. simply turn off your heat, wait a few minutes, and slowly unscrew the vent. you don't want steam to shoot out from the open hole, so leave your heat off until you've replaced the vent. you may be able to clean the old one by soaking it in boiling vinegar. or, splurge on a brand new vent from your local hardware store. about $15 buys a vent with an adjustable air opening which lets you control how quickly the steam flows through the radiator. for $50-125 you can purchase a thermostatic radiator valve (trv) which will shut the radiator off when it reaches a desired temperature. water buildups will reduce efficiency, so make sure the radiator is pitched correctly - away from the vent. a couple shims under the feet will give it just the right tilt... and keep you toasty through the winter months. q: my contractor says i only need 45,000 btu to heat my house. but, my old system was much larger. will i be warm enough? a: pack away your sweaters. the hulking heating system your house needed 30 years ago may not be necessary today. newer equipment is more efficient, and buildings are better insulated. if you overdo your btu your heater will click on and off too often. the temperature won't stay constant, and you'll spend more in fuel and maintenance. to make sure you install the best size, ask your heating contractor to do a careful heat loss calculation. the mathematics will look daunting: in addition to room size, the equation will factor in details such as window size and placement, ceiling height, existing insulation, and number of outside walls. to round out the figures, your contractor will look at prevailing winds and temperatures in your region. feeling like einstein? you can do your own calculations. find heat-loss calculators on the web from www.hydronic.net and other heating supply companies. home design q: all my life i've wanted to live in a home designed by frank lloyd wright. an impossible dream? a: start packing. more than 400 buildings by wright still stand, and the frank lloyd wright building conservancy has a listing of homes you can buy. browse their real estate catalog at www.swcp.com/flw. nothing available in your area? consider hiring wright's original firm, taliesin architects (480-614-3500), to design a custom home in the spirit of the master. or, check out the construction-ready prairie-inspired house plans by 4 hills designers: www.handywerks.com/fourhills. even if your new home is not a frank lloyd wright original, it can incorporate his most popular details. andersen windows (1-888-888-7020) has decorative stained glass and handcrafted panels in four frank lloyd wright designs. other companies offer architectural millwork, lighting, cast stone, furniture, rugs, and fabrics. for a free product catalog, call the frank lloyd wright foundation: 1-800-735-2587. q: before i sit down with my architect, i'd like to sketch out some of my own ideas for our dream house. but i can't draw a straight line! any suggestions? a: if you can turn on a computer, you can draw floor plans and 3-d views using home design software. don't be enticed by the bells and whistles offered by professional cad (computer aided design) programs. precision drafting might be nice, but for ease of use you will be better off with software geared for hobbyists. for $49.95, broderbund's 3-d home architect deluxe lets you customize 350 preset plans or create your own original. want to show your vision of arched doorways leading out to the terrace? point and click to create the shapes and lines you want. select moldings and other details from a menu of options. experiment with stone, granite, brick, and other finishing materials. add furniture, window treatments, and even trees and shrubs. then, switch to 3-d and take a virtual walk through your design. a program like this doesn't take the place of an architect, but computer drawings can help your pro understand what you mean when you say, "give my home a woodsy look." find 3-d home architect deluxe at your local office supply store, or order it from the company: www.learningco.com. art display and conservation q: we have inherited a wonderful 18th-century landscape. what's the safest way to display a historic painting? a: you're smart to think about your art. fluctuations in heat and humidity can cause the canvas to expand and contract, cracking the paint. to protect your heirloom, choose a wall in an interior room where temperatures will remain more constant. resist the temptation to display your painting over the fireplace. also avoid heating and air conditioner vents and bright lights. the safest place for your fine art is away from direct sunlight and the bustle of activity. try to keep the relative humidity at a comfortable level -- between 30 percent and 70 percent is best. archival backing, installed by a professional framer, will give added protection. for more hints, log on to the american institute for the conservation of historic and artistic works. security and vacation care q: our neighbors were robbed! police say the thieves got inside by cracking the code to their garage door opener. how can we make sure our house is safe? a: the high-tech low life who burglarized the house next door may have the closest thing to an electronic key: a code grabber. your remote works by sending an entry-code signal to your garage door. using a code grabber, a lurking burglar can record that signal and return later to open the door. don't panic. many newer garage door openers are equipped with rolling code technology. each time the remote is used, it creates a new signal. the old signal will not work, and would-be thieves are thwarted. if you're using a fixed-signal garage door opener, you can upgrade without buying a whole new system. genie company offers the intellicode universal conversion kit for about $50. the receiver and transmitter will operate any existing opener. still jittery? when you're away on vacation, pull the plug on your automatic opener and lock the door manually. q: whenever i'm away from my weekend home, i worry: what if there is a power failure? will the pipes freeze and burst? a: ease your fears. the same company that installed your burglar and fire alarm can add a cold temperature monitor to your existing security system. or, you can simply plug in a stand alone device such as temperature guard ($245) from microtechnologies. the alarm looks and acts like a telephone answering machine. when the internal sensor detects temperatures below 45 degrees, the machine begins dialing emergency telephone numbers. for added security, temperature guard has a backup battery. curious whether your hideaway is warm enough for an impromptu visit? call the monitor and hear the temperature. q: we dream of owning a vacation home, but we're so busy. how can we keep our getaway well maintained when we're not there? a: your second home does not have to turn into a second job. before you sign the dotted line, ask your realtor about property management services available in your area. most managers specialize in investment properties, but some will oversee the day-to-day care of private homes. in addition to landscape and exterior maintenance, managers will schedule repairs, pay taxes and other bills, and even supervise renovation work. if your getaway is in a resort community, chances are that the homeowners association will offer a variety of maintenance services. want to be pampered? at quechee lakes (quecheelakes.com) in vermont, homeowners may call the community concierge for housecleaning, grocery shopping, airport pickup and drop-off, and other special needs. all you have to do is pick up your golf clubs or skis. text copyright © 2001 jackie craven. adapted from columns written for house & garden magazine. all rights reserved.

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